It's all just one big restau-rant...

Sunday 2 December 2007

Red Chilli

Here's one that got away - and a very nice one at that. We're back in Chinatown on Portland Street. Reassuringly Red Chilli seems to use a one-stream approach to chinese quisine so no need (as Neil Sowerby sort of said) to go for off-menu macho jackass behaviour. And best of all it's not just boring old Cantonese. When I was in there it was heaving with happy diners, mostly oriental. A good sign. Sweet Mandarin by contrast was totally British though I suppose in a very different catchment area.

For starters I had "beijing dumplings" which I have fond memories of eating far too many of when my dad's friend Chen cooked for us back home in Lancaster when I was about 7. Never seen them at a restaurant before.

Then I think for the main I had some kind of bird-nest-fish-basket thing which was pretty spicy as I remember. It was fine but I was already creaking under the weight of all those dumplings. Perhaps I should have read the rest of Neil's review and had the Lamb dish. Well worth a visit and definitely to be returned to at some point.

The Orangery

The Orangery is a very pleasant wine bar in leafy Heaton Moor with a big stained-glass roof over the back-section of the restaurant and little terraces to front and rear for sunny days and smokers. The decor feels nice and light, the coffee and cakes are wonderful. And the food while often a little slow to come (it says so on the menu too) makes up for itself by being unfailingly very good.

I've been here loads either bringing friends and relations for a nice bite or in less happy moments used to use it as a bit of a bolt-hole, going in there for a coffee after seeing the doctor in Heaton Moor while waiting for the pharmacy to sort out my citalopram hydrobromide - that kind of thing. Glad I'm not on that stuff any more, it was giving me lock-jaw.

Today the menu seemed pretty different from how it had been back in the summer. I had the seafood pancakes which came served rather like canellonni - in a creamy bachemael and the thing was f**king gorgeous. Goopy, fishy, cheesy, yum. After a very unpleasant morning it was exactly what I needed and made me feel able to brave the rain and the train ride back to the flat.

The service was very pleasant and I felt like they were attending to me well considering it was reasonably busy. There was one time that the girl serving us didn't know what Prosecco was, but hey this is Stockport...

Sweet Mandarin



I went to a very glass-fronted place in the northern quarter (opposite the previously reviewed TNQ) called Sweet Mandarin. It looked nice enough - quite modern with nice wall-size photos of rice in fields and origami cranes instead of the washed-out paintings of pagodas and those funny gold cats with the waving arm.

The service was pretty slow. They were quite busy but not exactly heaving so not really an excuse. The food certainly passable. I started with a wanton soup which was fine - quite heavy on the sesame oil - but tasty and really not bad at all. The main course was sweet and sour king prawns. The menu enticed me with fancy names thinking that this might be a little different from your average S&SP but really it wasn't anything special. Ultimately I felt a little fobbed off by the flowery descriptions.

This didn't come cheap - but to add insult, at the end they managed to get my bill wrong to the tune of a tenner. I was not best pleased and in my ire refused to pay the service charge once they had worked it out properly.

Update: A return visit recently revealed little new of note. I went with a couple of friends and while the food was certainly passable it wasn't in the same league as the star attractions of Chinatown.

Tuesday 6 November 2007

The Sun Cafe, Lancaster

Now it was a week or so ago I went here and I did promise a review at the time but, well, I've had other stuff on my mind. Story goes that I went here with a mate after a bit of searching round town and ended up at the Sun Cafe - and I'm very glad we got this far. Lancaster has historically been quite low on good eateries outside of the pizza-pasta-curry-chinese territory and it was very pleasing to see something a bit more in the zone.

To start off with they brought us some bread and olive oil and OOOH look there's mushrooms in it! How intriguing! And very pleasant little mushrooms they were all covered in oil and vinegar. A good omen...

We definitely had some starters - mine was probably something involving liver and bacon and I remember being pretty good, perhaps a little salty but that's bacon for you. The beers must have been kicking in at this point because I really can't remember much else about it.

And for mains I had asked for their lamb which came to my specification, pleasingly twitching with some top-notch (juniper-berry?) gravy and vegetables. It was in fact very nice meat and incredibly tender. They did put the veg in an odd little basket thing but as this was also edible I didn't complain. My companion's Salmon came with a swirl of red raspberry stuff around it with lovely delicately tweaked heart shaped white bits in it - they're certainly putting in the presentation work. He said it was "good". Did we have dessert? No, I think just coffees.

We gassed about work and music and stuff and then went out for more round the corner at the John O Gaunt. All in all I found the Sun Cafe a very good experience. I will certainly go back and I would certainly recommend it.

Monday 5 November 2007

Simple

A long day at work - getting out around six I ended up on a Victoria train again. Wandering through meant that my impulsiveness got the better of me and I headed into Simple as I had thought it looked nice from the outside a few times. I sat down, asked for a beer and swiftly realised that the musky smell that had been following me around for the latter part of the day was my own BO. I stink. But after some kerfuffle with an out-of-date menu (no leffe, no crabcakes) I've committed to soup and a rare burger. I feel like I've got a green mist around me... Where is my emergency Mitchum when I need it?

Simple is a cafe bar type afair - with big floral wallpaper and huge chunky ornate mirrors, the odd cheap-looking crystal chandelier and some bits of modernity (stripes) to balance it all out. It's about 60% tables 40% sofas.

The tomato and basil soup was fine. It contained vegetables but was nothing too amazing. Came with some ciabatta bread. Nothing to report, bit of a boring choice/option really. Then again the place is supposed to be "simple". Perhaps that is the point....

One good thing about it - they have very easy wireless access, just connect to the one called "NETGEAR". I'm writing this live for a change. Simple. But keeping their SSID (and presumably the router's password) on the default is slightly more clueless than simple to be honest.

Then comes the main. A rare burger with blue cheese. It came in a bun with a bit of salad and some not-too-fat potato wedges. It was certainly rare enough and actually a very tasty thing. In fact I think I've got it now. It's just simply a burger and quite a nice one. Simple init. I'd better get out of here before I start driving the other customers away.

Shang-Hi and beyond

The other night a friend came over to Manchester and we went out, to a few pubs bars and one of the innumerable chinese buffet places near the flat. We had a good time - reminiscing, bitching, coming up with photographic projects involving dressing up as Batman and standing on rooftops, that kind of thing.

Shang-hi seems to be marginally classier than your average buffet. Before we got anywhere near the buffet they brought us (completely unbidden) some crispy duck with pancakes and various meaty dainties. Declare any vegetarianism at the door I suppose. Anyway it was pretty good but after a plate full of noodles and mains I felt like Mr Creosote and really couldn't eat any more despite really wanting to. I think the rule has to be that you should starve yourself for the rest of the day before going to such a place, one I had clearly neglected.

I felt distinctly queasy after the meal and was taking it pretty easy on the beers. We went to the very arty Sandbar off Oxford road (one of my mate's old haunts) and thence meandered up to the Northern Quarter. He had to get the train back to Macclesfield around 10 but after he had gone I hung about for a bit, missing one or two attempts at being pulled; first by a lady who was falling asleep and wanted help - what kind of help? a bed... I extracted myself from her arms. Then by some girls who were bothering the bouncers outside and shouted "coming with us?" when they got their taxi. I think on balance I'm just not in the space for such encounters yet. My mate thought a good shag would do me good. Perhaps one day.

Friday 19 October 2007

New Samsi, Whitworth Street

I came in to town via Victoria which gave me the excuse to sit for a while in an armchair on the top floor of Trof - mainly blogging previous meals. They sure get excited when you ask them to do a cocktail in there, the barman was tossing Tabasco all over the place. I figured my liver would probably benefit from my stopping drinking already, headed back to the flat to get my camera and came straight back out to the New Samsi Japanese restaurant on Whitworth Street.



I've not had much proper Japanese food before but what sushi I've had, mainly from Marks and Sparks, I have greatly enjoyed. I asked for a pot of tea and perused the menu for interesting looking things. Octopus sushi. That sounds nice. And erm what else. I asked my pretty kimono-clad waitress what was good and she asked if I wanted something really Japanese, pointed down to the bottom of the menu where there was something involving pork and "sweet egg". Sadly I chickened out and went for the eggless version above it - next time I promise to be more brave.



The octopus was very thinly sliced, had suckers and wiggly bits and looked like four little works of art when delivered on their little porcelain shelf each wrapped with a little bit of rice. It seemed such a shame to hack them into their constituent parts, smear them in soy and wassabi and eat them, but that's what had to be done. The octopus was a little rubbery but then they just are aren't they.



The next course arrived and looked rather like a Viener Schnitzel. With a bit of salad on the side and some sweet sticky sauce poured over. Schnitzel are normally lean but this was proper full-fat melty pork belly inside and was very very nice. I finished my tea, took a few more photos for good measure and left feeling full and content.

Paella at the Cornerhouse

I quite like the Cornerhouse, as do half the trendy arty Powerbook-weilding bods of Manchester. No trouble fitting in there then but it can get pretty crowded - or convivial perhaps. I came, had some coffee, used their wi-fi for a while and I realised I was hungry. I'll have a bottle of Entire Stout and a paella please. And you know what, there was nothing wrong with it at all. Massive juicy (tender and in no-way rubberised) prawns, bits of chorizo, mussels, chicken and lots of nice yellow rice. All served in one of those cast iron things with handles. I ate every scrap.



I've had the food in there a number of times now - and considering that it isn't their core business (that would be drink followed by the cinema I suspect) for a nice lunch at semi-reasonable prices it's very good. The menu is basically Mediterranean in style, pizzas, bowls of meatballs (ask for extra bread to mop up the sauce if you get these), paella and so forth. Sit, sup, open your laptop and for god's sake try to look cool.

Kurdistan Restaurant, Bolton

I may have mentioned previously that one of these days I was going to get brave and go to the Kurdistan Restaurant in Bolton. This place is truly in a world of its own - I've never seen any "westerners" in there and sure enough I got a truly undiluted cultural experience. The telly was blaring with a Kurdish news channel, people came and went wishing each other hearty "salam-allec"s either fetching takeouts or sitting down for lunch.



The menu is represented by pictures. I had the Lamb Quzi. When it came I was reassured that all the portly gentlemen at the next table were having the same thing - a good choice is a popular choice.... I got a bowl of soup for starters which was watery, tasty and not suitable for vegetarians. The main course was primarily bits of lamb (with suckable melty bones) and rice (with raisins and bits of noodle). On the side and to provide sauce it comes with a bowl of tomatoey beans. The etiquette is to gradually empty the beans/sauce onto the rice/lamb over the course of eating it. A beautiful bubbly naan came - initially as a kind of lid for it all. Again it took me a few moments to twig - but that is why they have the little wicker mats on all the tables - to put your naan on. And all this for four pounds. Brilliant.

Wednesday 10 October 2007

Happy seasons, Chinatown

It was Sunday night - in all honesty I was still a little wonky after going out on Saturday so rather than cook the various things I had in the fridge I went out for some Chinese. I find trying to research Chinese restaurants in Manchester a very confusing business as most of the reviews seem to be either WRITTEN IN CAPITALS and/or very very short. I had better not let the side down:



HAPPY SEASONS IS A GREAT RESTAURANT IT'S NOT BIG BUT THEY HAVE REAL CHINESE PEOPLE IN THERE AND UPSET SOUNDING DANES. CHINESE PEOPLE DRINK TEA AND USE CHOPSTICKS. DANES USE KNIVES AND FORKS AND DRINK BEER. I HAD VERY GOOD SOUP WITH WANTONS IN IT AND SOME KIND OF PORK AND CABBAGE DISH.



Stop shouting for goodness sake. Thing is there are SO many restaurants I need to go to a few more to get a proper handle on where is actually good. This place certainly had a bit of not-posh charm and was indeed full of genuine Chinese people ordering a completely different sub-set of food from the westerners. Chopsticks in one hand, little spoon in the other, a big slurp of tea, and bones left scattered across the table they came in ones and twos for a quick fix or in parties for lingering conversation.

The two-stream approach does bother me a bit - like they take the same food but take the bones out if you're European. It's like having the crusts cut off the bread by a well-meaning but ultimately mis-guided parent. Call me strange but I can't stand such mollycoddlement. Next time I go to one of these places I'm going to ask for tea, get talking to the staff and see if I can get the good stuff. Rant over.



The food was pretty good really, particularly the soup which was lovely and watery and full of good things. The menu so extensive that there must have been all sorts of interesting stuff hiding in there - I was very tempted by the rather expensive scallop dishes in the seafood section at the front but think I didn't exactly do badly with the pork with preserved cabbage. It doesn't matter what culture you come from, pork and cabbage is always a winner!

The Castle - return visit

Not content to go straight home I went down to the Castle again. I figure a good way to establish oneself in a community is to go to the pub a few times. Tonight I got as far as the back room and found the piano and a bunch of very very worse for wear welsh people with long hair. They were playing guitar very badly - only about three strings remained. According to the girl who was with them they had been totally fucked for about three days now. I suppose that's what passes for rock and roll. Sad. I was on my second half of Old Tom by the time they asked if anyone played the piano. I sheepishly raised my hand and tried to follow the three string chaos. We got some giggles from the bearded local biker types which was the best accolade available.

The piano is of course totally fucked as well. It's way out of tune and there are many many missing notes. Middle C was a great start being quite absent. I think some kind of piano restoration fund might be needed here. Still, limitation is probably the mother of invention and I enjoyed just going with it.

I might pop back for the open mic night next Monday - sounds like they are ok and it's so long since I've done anything like that. Could even prepare some little samples to go with if I get the time. I should sample the piano to get a hold on the tuning first.

Note: This is not an eatery, they do not do food.

Update April 09: The Castle has re-opened resplendent with new landlords and toilets. A piano restoration fund has been officially established and is doing well. Pay them a visit and follow them on twitter @thecastlehotel and do stick some pennies in the piano pot!

Monday 8 October 2007

Happy Birthday Yann

Now I do somehow have to reconstruct some kind of life so I've taken a few opportunities (on doctors advice I might add) to go out and get ratted and meet people.

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My latest attempt at this was on Saturday night when I meandered my way along to Oldham Street and the Castle Hotel. I had read on the internet that it was an un-fucked-about-with pub which did good real ales and sometimes saw impromptu gigs by the real musos. I'm not so bothered about the real musos but the real ales and some friendly un-fucked-about-with people would be fine. Can't go wrong really.

On the way there I inevitably got accosted by some Gypsy flower ladies and couldn't resist a quick chat in Romanian. They were only too happy to oblige and gave me a carnation for my trouble. In hind-sight I really ought to have given them some pennies for it but wracked with guilt I figured I was better giving it to the pub rather than not paying for it and then throwing it away. That would just be sad.

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I don't know who this guy is but he has a very nice tash


I had a bloody great night. I sat at the bar, drank quite a bit of their incredibly dangerous Old Tom, talked nonsense with incoming punters who miraculously wanted to buy me Tequila. I photographed the ornaments, the barpeople and then leaving the kind man who bought the Tequila a rather long way behind marched down to the Night and Day Cafe. The bouncer let me in with an "is it just you on your own?" which I thought sounded a bit odd - only to discover that it was the owner Yann's 60th Birthday party. Not a bad party to crash on my first night out in Manchester I'd say. The rest of the night starts to blur - but I did try not to overdo it too much from then on as I knew I had to be out and sober by lunchtime. Many languages were spoken, some human. Happy birthday Yann - it was nice to meet you. It was nice to meet everyone else too. I'm sure I'll be back for more...

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Note: Night and day do food during the day but I've never eaten it

Sunday 23 September 2007

Savino's

The morning after the stonemason party I found myself victim of Cambridge's appalling Sunday bus service. One bus an hour and the connecting bus leaves 2 minutes before the inbound bus gets in. Great! I've got 58 minutes to kill at Cambridge bus station! I checked the messages on my phone which seemed to mainly involve one of my relatives trying to get in touch with me not exactly what I needed at that particular moment.

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I somehow still had a few quid in my pocket and there was a busy looking cafe with authentic looking foreigners sat outside reading authentic looking Italian newspapers. Coffee must be good there. And it was.



They have some pretty interesting sounding combinations on the board for their sandwiches and pannini - ever the masochist I had a pannino involving dolcelatte and artichokes. It was crunchy and full of nice Italian stuff. There was a basic but serviceable salad on the side (is raw red onion allowed? I'm not sure) and oil and balsamic in drizzlers on the table - among the little touches that make the place just-so. It wasn't cheap - by northern bus-station standards it is pretty astronomical in fact but I'm a stranger in this land.

The man behind the counter (is he Savino? answers in the comments) was clearly having trouble with the young waitress he was working with. Along the lines of he was dancing the tango and she was dancing the boogie-woogie. They weren't quite going in the same direction and seemed to be forever crashing into each other. It would be good to know if they have managed to resolve this particular bit of choreography. I took some photos, promised them a review and off I toddled for the number 7.



All in all it was very pleasant and such a million miles away from all the shitty chain coffee starbucks bullshit. If you are ever stuck at Cambridge bus station it's the place to go.

Saturday 22 September 2007

The Bottisham Brasserie

While staying in Cambridge on my escape-weekend we went out to a party with some stonemasons - real stonemasons who mason real stone - we aren't talking secret societies here. By way of proving this, the yard outside their house had a row of impressive looking sailors in process of restoration. The ones who weren't stonemasons seemed to be mostly female cricketers with the odd crossover into astrophysics.



The party of about 20 walked across the fields of Cambridgeshire to the village of Bottisham where they have a nice little Indian brasserie. Now it ain't glamorous (was that a pentagram on the wall?) and lets face it it isn't geared up to dealing with large parties - it took forever for our food to come and you could see the other people in twos and fours getting quite twitchy while they wait for our food to come, hoping that theirs would follow on its heels. Once the trolley had been wheeled out and wide assortment of wonderfulness placed on our table they did get their fill but it wasn't exactly erm snappy. No. I think the lesson there is don't go in a big group, and if you see a big group entering run several miles to the next eating establishment. Otherwise, stay and feast.



But hey the food was actually pretty good - certainly on a par with other quality curry places I have visited - they've put in the work and are using real spices, real veg, real meat and real authentic know how to put it together. While we had entered pretty hungry we left suitably full and satisfied.

We headed back to the stonemason place (on the road this time - probably was a full moon, wouldn't want to risk it) and watched the flames of the bonfire flickering in the darkness.

Friday 21 September 2007

The Northern Quarter (TNQ)

This was the day that I left my partner. I dragged my bag and pan into the office, phoned my mum, agreed to go stay with her for the night and went out for some dinner while I waited for her to get home from a prior engagement. I rolled into Victoria station and meandered around looking for a suitable spot. I was almost tempted by Nosh but then thought I'd had enough Chinese lately and that I would carry on walking a little. Soon I found myself at The Northern Quarter or TNQ - as you might have guessed it is named so because it is in the Northern Quarter. Go figure. It has very big windows and seemed busy despite it being a little early. I walked in, worked out where to sit and got a glass of wine while I perused the menu.

Being a little bit skint at the moment I thought I shouldn't be too naughty (who am I being naughty at anyway? erm it's up to me for goodness sake) and went for the two courses for 9.99 early bird menu. I had squids and noodles again as a starter and a burger for the main. Both were very well presented - the squid peppery and tender, the burger chunky and satisfying. BUT had I not been so preoccupied with my domestic situation I probably should have asked for the burger to be done rare. Having been brought up on french steak hache dripping with blood, it always feels rather disappointing when burgers - particularly good quality ones - are totally cooked. Hey, there is always next time. The chips were almost certainly pre-prepared frozen chips - which I thought they could have done themselves, but hey what do I expect on the cheap menu. Next time I'm going to have the a-la-carte menu and ask for my food still twitching.

There are no pictures on the walls in the main body of the restaurant however by the entrance to the toilets there is a large picture of Luke Skywalker. Is he inviting constipated patrons to use the force? Perhaps. The staff took a few moments to look blankly as I said this before coming out with peels of laughter and whispering among themselves.

Rice n Three, Bolton

A friend was passing through Bolton so I took him to Rice n Three for lunch. We sat and we chatted and compared stories.

Rice n Three is a little Indian cafe in Bolton - near the "bottom" end of the high street - walking from the station towards town you take a right at the first set of lights and it's in the row of shops on your right. The place is greatly favoured by my parents slightly do-lally cleaner and not without reason. They have a rotating menu of curries, making a different selection of vegetable and meat dishes each day. The idea is you get a plate of rice and three of the curries - but of course you can ask for naan or just two curries or chapattis if you wanted. I had lamb, channa and cabbage which cost not much more than £2.50. For a grotty looking cheap little lunch place it really does nice curry. Subtle variations in spices and complimentary flavours of the three dishes go down a treat. The meat, while slightly boney was tender and sweet. It can't be beat. (Update: The prices have gone slightly higher since I wrote this, more like four quid for a meal, but it's still a bargain)



Bolton is in some ways a terrible place from a culinary point of view - finding a nice restaurant without leaving the town seems like very hard work, but as this place proves, if you lower your expectations and follow the local flavour there are truly some diamonds in the rough.

Friday 31 August 2007

Prezzo

I was coming home from a few days away. I was about to get a train back up to Manchester from London and needed some lunch before I came up. What is it to be? Onion rings from Burger King? No, I had had that on the way down. What about this posh looking little restaurant on the corner. That will do nicely. Prezzo look like they are quite a big chain but mostly limited to the South - which will be why I hadn't come across them before.



Clearly these guys are EXPERTS at extracting as much money as possible from those who haplessly wander in off a train - they were on to me in seconds offering drinks and nibbles. The pretty waitress asks me if I want olives and I say yes please. Then in a way that sounds like it is mandatory says "and bread" and I say "yes, ok". The bread is not mandatory, it does not "just come" with the olives and it is certainly not free. It was also quite filling and I didn't really need it. While that might seem a bit pushy the service was actually very good - for speed and efficiency you simply can't fault them. I even managed to extract a smile or two.


The main course, now it was a while ago but I think I had some kind of baked pasta chicken carbonara affair and as I remember it was nice. Could have had a bit more creamyness in the sauce perhaps. I was so stuffed from the bread and the pasta though that I just couldn't manage a pudding - bit of a shame as I rather fancied one when I walked in there.

Soup Kitchen



Tucked away in the Northern Quarter (behind Oldham Street and just across the road from the infamous Koffee Pot) is the Soup Kitchen. I have had my eye on it for a couple of weeks and leapt at the excuse to go there. This morning it was totally dead. Admittedly I was in there at a bit of a funny time, too late for breakfast and too early for lunch but it did seem a bit silly being the only soul in there apart from the staff. Still there has to be someone first through the door.



The staff were still working on the day's soup preparations but had got four varieties ready. I chose mushroom, some bread and butter and a cup of coffee and sat down. Now first things first, it was tasty soup and nice bread and good coffee. The soup was clearly packed with herbs, thyme and coriander and I suspect quite a bit of salt and pepper. Texture wise it dunked well, and drank well though the exuberance with thyme meant there were a few woody sprigs involved, one of which I nearly choked on. The bloke behind the counter looked at me worriedly to make sure everything was all right and then peered closely at his soup pot.



The place reeks of cool - down to the big red curtains and trendy antique magazines on the bookcases - but still it remains quite good value and they clearly care about what they are doing. My soup, bread and coffee came in at under a fiver. I'd like to come back when the place has some more people in it.

Zinc

I was particularly pissed off - and instead of heading into work thought I'd go mooch around Manchester for a bit and perhaps have a bit of food. I trundled through Picadilly Gardens, bought some small bits and bobs for my camera at the shop under the Royal Exchange and then spotted the Zinc Bar and Grill in the Triangle building near Victoria.



They had a nice looking lunch menu but were rather unwilling to give me anything on it until it officially became lunch time at 12 - I think it was about 11:15 when I walked in and they were still serving "brunch". I wasn't being moved and stubbornly sat, drank coffee and waited until they would serve me my chosen item, some kind of fried squid with thai noodle salad. Everyone overcooks squid. Everyone overcooks seafood in general to my mind. This example was nearly worth the wait with about the right texture and had a tasty bit of liquid/noodles/green stuff surrounding it. I gobbled it down but I was still hungry and wanted pudding.



Chocolate sponge pudding - with a sponge outside and a gooey liquid centre - never fails to delight me and they were making a very good effort with it. They didn't have any vanilla icecream so I ended up having it topped off with chocolate ice cream making the whole thing a bit heafty, vanilla would have been a good bouncer for all the chocolate - but perhaps they had seen me coming and realised that I required my food dirtily indulgent.